Amplifiers, usually known as just ‘amps’ are at the very heart of a stereo system. For this reason it’s essential to make the right choice.
THE INS & OUTS
The first consideration when choosing your amp is the connectivity or inputs and outputs you require. Most inputs you’ll find on an amplifier are at what is called, ‘line level’. Line level is a techie term referring to the voltage outputs of CD players, tuners, games consoles and pretty much any source except one important exception - turntables. If you're a vinyl fan you need to be careful to choose an amplifier equipped with a dedicated phono input. As the output from a turntable is around ten times weaker than other source inputs, it needs additional amplification from a phono stage (also called a phono pre-amp).
So, if you don’t have a turntable in your system then a line level amp will work just fine.
If you do have a turntable, make sure your amp has a phono stage fitted.
The first consideration when choosing your amp is the connectivity or inputs and outputs you require. Most inputs you’ll find on an amplifier are at what is called, ‘line level’. Line level is a techie term referring to the voltage outputs of CD players, tuners, games consoles and pretty much any source except one important exception - turntables. If you're a vinyl fan you need to be careful to choose an amplifier equipped with a dedicated phono input. As the output from a turntable is around ten times weaker than other source inputs, it needs additional amplification from a phono stage (also called a phono pre-amp).
So, if you don’t have a turntable in your system then a line level amp will work just fine.
If you do have a turntable, make sure your amp has a phono stage fitted.
DON'T FORGET YOUR PORTABLE
With MP3 portables, iPods and iPhones so prominent these days, it’s hard to find an amplifier that hasn’t made at least some concession to them. At one end of the scale, an amp could have a simple
3.5mm mini-jack input on its front facia. Simply use a mini-jack to mini-jack cable from your portable and you’re in business. A more sophisticated option is that of a dock connection or complete dock itself. These usually only work with Apple iPods and iPhones and sometimes won’t even work with newer versions of these, so care must be taken if you plan to make use of these. A better option for many is a front-mounted USB socket. This connects to your MP3 player, iPod, iPhone and, in some cases, even an iPad, to give the highest quality digital connection (provided the amp itself features digital processing). As an added bonus, it will usually charge your device, too.
With MP3 portables, iPods and iPhones so prominent these days, it’s hard to find an amplifier that hasn’t made at least some concession to them. At one end of the scale, an amp could have a simple
3.5mm mini-jack input on its front facia. Simply use a mini-jack to mini-jack cable from your portable and you’re in business. A more sophisticated option is that of a dock connection or complete dock itself. These usually only work with Apple iPods and iPhones and sometimes won’t even work with newer versions of these, so care must be taken if you plan to make use of these. A better option for many is a front-mounted USB socket. This connects to your MP3 player, iPod, iPhone and, in some cases, even an iPad, to give the highest quality digital connection (provided the amp itself features digital processing). As an added bonus, it will usually charge your device, too.
RECORDING & HEADPHONES
Once you have your inputs sorted, you need to consider outputs or recording loops. Most amplifiers have at least one recording output but some have two. With recording via cassette, CDR or MiniDisc less popular these days you may not find any need for recording loops. Finally, don’t forget that not all amplifiers come fitted with a headphone socket. Should you be a fan of cans then make sure your amplifier to be is suitably equipped.
Once you have your inputs sorted, you need to consider outputs or recording loops. Most amplifiers have at least one recording output but some have two. With recording via cassette, CDR or MiniDisc less popular these days you may not find any need for recording loops. Finally, don’t forget that not all amplifiers come fitted with a headphone socket. Should you be a fan of cans then make sure your amplifier to be is suitably equipped.
WATTS IT ALL ABOUT
It might appear very simply that the higher an amps’ power rating the better it will sound - if only it were that easy! Firstly, an amplifier’s power rating gives no indication of the actual quality of sound. There are plenty of sublime sounding amplifiers, costing thousands of pounds with power outputs of only 10 or 20 watts.
Secondly, a higher power rating doesn’t necessarily even guarantee more noise. There are so many aspects to measuring power that it’s hard to make an easy comparison.
For the record, whenever we quote a power rating, we try to use the RMS (Root Mean Square) measurement, quoted into an 8 ohm speaker load. As you can see from the below, the power can soon be inflated by using other methods.
It might appear very simply that the higher an amps’ power rating the better it will sound - if only it were that easy! Firstly, an amplifier’s power rating gives no indication of the actual quality of sound. There are plenty of sublime sounding amplifiers, costing thousands of pounds with power outputs of only 10 or 20 watts.
Secondly, a higher power rating doesn’t necessarily even guarantee more noise. There are so many aspects to measuring power that it’s hard to make an easy comparison.
For the record, whenever we quote a power rating, we try to use the RMS (Root Mean Square) measurement, quoted into an 8 ohm speaker load. As you can see from the below, the power can soon be inflated by using other methods.
| Typical amp, power measured RMS @ 8 ohms | = | 50 watts RMS |
| Using the DIN standard doubles this | = | 100 watts DIN |
| Using the PMPO (Peak Music Power Output) doubles it again | = | 200 watts PMPO |
| Now half the ohms to 4 and the power is roughly double again | = | 400 watts PMPO 4ohms |
From the above you can see how what we would call a 50 watt amp could easily be dubbed as 400 watts. To make matters even more confusing, some manufacturers measure at higher levels of distortion than others, further inflating the figure. Our advice is to check the figures you see carefully and ask our knowledgeable sales colleagues if you’re in any doubt as to an amps true power.
THE HIGHS & LOWS
Tone controls and other equalisers still feature on some amplifiers, but most audiophile amplifier designers stopped fitting them long ago. The thinking behind the minimalist approach is that every item in the audio path worsens the sound; by leaving out anything that's not essential you get closer to the original signal. To strike a happy medium, most manufacturers who still fit tone controls nowadays also fit a switch to bypass them.
Tone controls and other equalisers still feature on some amplifiers, but most audiophile amplifier designers stopped fitting them long ago. The thinking behind the minimalist approach is that every item in the audio path worsens the sound; by leaving out anything that's not essential you get closer to the original signal. To strike a happy medium, most manufacturers who still fit tone controls nowadays also fit a switch to bypass them.
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